Tuesday, March 10, 2015

In progress shots of Lekala 5054

The Sewing Lawyer must return to lawyering as of next Monday (sniff!).  I want this suit done by then.

So here are some drive-by photos of the jacket progress with random comments.  I hope looking inside is of interest to you my dear readers :-)

I used Pro-Weft fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply (site for international customers) to stabilize the entire front and the under collar.   You might be able to see that the lapel has an extra layer of Pro-Weft.  So does the collar stand.

I used a different interfacing (softer, fluffy texture) to provide a bit of extra oomph to the upper collar, front and sleeve hem facings,  sleeve and jacket back hems.





The upper back is stabilized with a layer of cotton shirting.














Chest shield/shoulder pad piece
The shoulder area is lightly padded with a combined chest shield/shoulder pad of my own invention.  The piece is drafted using the jacket pieces (front and back).  I overlap the shoulder seams and trace a piece that follows the neck edge, roll line and armscye.  The front is full width (roll line to armscye) and ends above the bust.  It fills in a hollow without adding bulk.  The back is more like a standard shoulder pad.  It's cut from one layer of Warm and Natural cotton quilt batting, with a smaller shoulder pad shape cut from fusible fleece.  I fuse them together over my pressing ham to build in a bit of shape.




 I also use Warm and Natural to cut a sleeve head, using the jacket upper sleeve pattern as a base.


And here is an incomprehensible inside photo.  At left is the back (blue cotton gingham back shield.  At the centre is the sleeve cap with sleeve head installed.  I use a catch stitch to attach the chest shield/shoulder pad piece loosely at the armscye, neck seam and roll line.  The sleeve head is attached with a running stitch to the seam allowance at the sleeve cap.

Not a bad result, if I do say so myself...




13 comments:

  1. Swoon!

    This is gorgeous work, inside and out.

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  2. Really chic and couture, just gorgeous.

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  3. Really chic and couture, just gorgeous.

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  4. Wow! Is this the result of sewing skills honed over many years, an amazing tailoring course or turning to a well-thumbed sewing reference book (or twenty)? It's absolutely perfect.

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  5. I am always in awe of your jacket making skills.

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  6. There you go - another amazing result. You're my sewing Shero. Thanks for sharing!

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  7. Fabulous pattern matching and tailoring

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  8. Very nice! Those sleeve heads are perfect.

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  9. It looks like you made very good use of your sewing vacation. That jacket looks gorgeous, inside and out.

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  10. I have been thinking about a shoulder pad/ chest piece for years but couldn't quite figure it out. Kudos!

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  11. Great tailoring. It looks substantial without being bulky or chunky in the wrong places. Thanks very much for the photo showing the installed sleevehead as well as the other photo showing it on its own, very instructive! I had wondered and now I wonder no more.
    A very, very nice jacket and just a beautiful job.

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  12. I was thinking about sewing this jacket...I've discovered your great job as I was watching for realizations of this #4162 ! Congratulations, it looks so chic, just would have seen the facing you've chosen... to inspire myself !!

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